Somebody recently asked my why on earth I never posted any info for travelers about Khon Kaen. Surely as a resident I would know the ins, the outs, the hots and the nots way better than any guidebook out there. True. I have come to know the place very well. And I've decided to share my...erm... vast knowledge of this town. Be careful however: things change and my opinion might not be the general one. Here goes... First things first. Before you can enjoy this town you have to get here. Most people come to Khon Kaen because it's on the way to Vientiane, Laos. Other routes include Chiang Mai to Ko Chang and or Cambodia (over land) and for the real dare devils the Thailand/ Southern Laos/ Vietnam track.
There are no beaches. No real tourist scene. And to most people that is exactly what is so charming about the place. This is Thailand at it's most Thai and if you want more of that, it's a great gateway to the rest of the North East or as the locals call it: Isaan. Definitely worth your visit. You can get here in three ways if you don't count walking:
1) By plane: there are daily Thai airways flights from Don Muang. A single ticket is about 1500-2000 Baht per person (around 40 euros). Be advised: these flight are pretty packed, so you have to book ahead. Flight time: about 45 minutes.
2) By train: a number of trains pass through Khon Kaen, notably the night train from Bangkok to Nong Kai. It will get you here slowly (9-10 hours) and safely. The train reaches Khon Kaen at around 5. You could have a pretty decent night's sleep (if you bring an eye patch). Second class sleeper will cost around 600 Baht (12 euros). Or have a very nice little first class compartment all to yourself and a significant other for around 1400 Baht (28 euros) per person. Book ahead Hualampong Station in Bangkok (it's the final/first station on the subway), especially near holidays.
3) By bus: there are many buses to Khon Kaen. Some slow, some fast, some safe, some, unsafe. The rule in Thailand is that you go on the gouvernment bus if you can. They are the most safe. But they are also slow at times. Luckily there are a couple of bus companies that have a really good reputation according to the locals and me. The best one for the Bangkok-Khon Kaen route is called Nakorn Chai Air. They drive modern, comfortable, well serviced and staffed buses, have two drivers per trip and they are said to fine their drivers if they arrive early. Travel time is about six hours (and that makes sleeping in the night bus useless). A single ticket goes for about 400 Baht (8 euros) and can be bought the easiest at Ekkamai bus station (AKA the eastern/North Eastern bus station). That's easiest because it's on the Sky train. The bus doesn't leave from there however. It leaves from its own Nakorn Chai Air terminal outside the city and passes Mochit bus station. It's best to take a taxi there. They will know both. On the way back don't get off in Mochit. It's easier to catch a cab at the Nakorn Chai terminal.
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That is so true that KKC have no real tourist spot. That is really the most difficult question to answer when I get one from friends. Always have to tell them that, isn't it enough you come to see me here? hahaha...
Just to add a few point about travelling to KKC;
1. Air asia has added a daily flight to Khon Kaen leaving from Suvannabhumi Airport. The tix price is relatively cheaper than Thai Airways.
2. Mind you that, the overnight train could be not-so-on-schedule. The scheduled arrival is around 5 a.m. but it often lates (as I experience it many times). Anyway, it is probably better to catch the train if you are not in a hurry and want a better sleep overnight.
3. I am not sure if Nakornchai Air (bus) has their tix booth at Ekkamai. Last time I was at Ekkamai, I saw none there. Anyway, totally agree that Nakornchai gives a good and reliable service. The bus is pretty much on schedule. I and most of my friends use their service. Nakornchai terminal would be the best to get the ticket, board and disembark the bus.
See you in Khon Kaen.
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