Time for some pictures

While Thailand seemed to be flying apart, we thought it might be a good day to visit the Pimai historical site. The idea of the trip was about three years old. But with (inter)national politics going awry and stony remnants of a huge empire that crumbled centuries ago: what a combination.

Here are the pictures.

Oh yeah: check out my pics from my trip to Vientiane while you're at it.

EVERYBODY PANIC!!!!

Yes: Thailand is in a spot of bother. Over the last years there have been several bomb explosions, violent clashes and military coups. Well one. But it's not over yet. Convicted megalomaniac fugitive ex-Prime Minster Taksin is said to still rule the country from abroad by proxy and half of Bangkok (joined in the PAD) is trying to shake off everything that has anything to do with him, while behind the scenes the army is wielding considerable (and unpredictable) power.

For now the army seems to have sided with the PAD. That is to say, both the PAD and the army agree on one thing: current PM Wongsawat (Thaksin's brother in law) should quit. Preferably before the birthday of the King (which is on the 5th of December).

Meanwhile here in Isaan (as in most of Thailand) there is no sign of any trouble at all. Yes, there are deep divisions and there's discontent. But the markets are bustling as usual, people are celebrating the local silk festival and life generally goes on as it has done for centuries.

Which is why I'm just a tad surprised when a renowned English paper like the Telegraph has put Thailand at number seven(!) in the dangerous-country-top-twenty. After countries like Iraq, Afghanistan and Sudan.

I've written an article like that myself years ago, managing to research it well for some reason. I found that the most dangerous places in the world (say the top 10) have been the same for years. Like Colombia, with it's exciting drug wars and unexpected kidnappings into pristine deep jungles. But apparently Thailand is way more dangerous than that now with it's closed airports and thousands of inconvenienced travelers.

Thailand is also deemed more dangerous than the Democratic Republic of Congo with it's panoramic view over war torn Africa, the Occupied Palestinian Territories and a hand full of other exotic countries with long standing travel warnings by the FCO. Countries were tourists are actually targeted. But I guess those sorry old stories don't sell any papers.

Interesting thing, that FCO list. Sure, Thailand has been on it for years too (because of the trouble in the deep south). But there's only one country in the world you really shouldn't go to at all: Somalia. Funny how that one never made the Telegraph...

Not so bad after all

There are a couple of places in Thailand that I've avoided like the plague. Places in the you-don't-have-to-pour-acid-in-your-eyes-to-know-that-it-stings-category.

On top of that list is Pataya. In many ways I have been there. I have seen Pataya in places like Goa, in Cuba and let's not forget red light districts the world over. I imagine Pataya to be a cross between Amsterdam's red light district, the backrooms at Club Fire in Kathmandu and a kindergarten run by ruthless Russian mobsters.

No, thank you very much. For that same reason I just couldn't seem fit the bar scene at Phuket in my itinerairy. And you better believe I have yet to set foot in Soi Cowboy or Nana Plaza in Bangkok. It's (again with the Russians) a little like Siberia: I know where it is, but I just don't want to go.

Somewhere at the very bottom of the list: Ko Samet (or rather Goh Saamed). Too close to Bangkok, to crowded and overrun. At least the noisy hookers mostly stay on the mainland at Ban Phe but that's the most charming quality of the Island. Or is it?

I just got back from ten days at one of the southern most beaches and it can get a little busy, but for the most part it was great: nice, not to expensive cabins on the beach, no major developments, but a lot of Thai little foodplaces and resorts. Nice.

Especially since we could avoid the crowds and took the ultra special secret boat past the main pier and imediatly headed a couple of beaches south of where all the jet ski's and bars are. Of course I can't write about exactly how we pulled this stunt. It would just become less ultra special, not to mention less secret...

Did I mention I even conviniently 'forgot' my camera? Totaly black bag ops.

That was good!

Hi and welcome back. No I don't post stuff when I'm on holiday to the deep south of Thailand. Strict policy. But here are some pictures. You'll understand why :)

Calling all athletes: go to China!

I have thought about it: why not boycott the 2008 summer Olympics and show China we're fed up with their government executing and torturing more people than any country in the world. Or because they're destroying the environment at an unbelievable rate, the fact that the Chinese have no free press, half the Internet is inaccessible, or beacuse of all that lead paint on toys and stuff. But the Olympics are a sports event people. So there you go. Sports. Not politics.

We have talked about it. Boycotting the Olympics. Especially here in Thailand after monks, journalists and unarmed civilians got shot, detained and disappeared in Burma. A despicable regime backed up in force by the Chinese rulers because of the oil and jade trade. But truth be told: athletes have been training to go for gold since long before they knew where the 2008 Olympics would be held. If an athlete decides not to go he or she will not only throw away years of training; someone else will go and win the gold medal that could have been theirs. What good could possibly come form that?

China & Tibet

Now everybody is again chanting: boycott the Olympics! This time it's because of Tibet. A repressed region annexed in 1959 (!) by the Peoples Republic of China that immediately began systematic eradication of every bit of its original culture. Temple by temple, door to door, song by song, word for word, hope against hope, piece by piece. Just a few days ago a hundred protesters got killed partly because the Chinese government is turning the Tibetan capital Lhasa into a Tibetan Disneyland for huge profits. Or maybe they just a little cross with the army that has occupied their country for -count them- 49 years.

Real sportsmanship

Now here's why all athletes should definitely go to Beijing: not for politics. But to champion real sportsmanship and fair play. Compete and win your medals before the eyes of the world. Go for gold. We want to see records shattered. Epic matches. Glorious winners. Gracious losers. Men and women being the best they can be. And then when it is time to get on the stage to accept the medal: refuse before the eyes of the world. Don't even show up for the ceremony. Empty platforms. Awkward deafening silences. The only appropriate way to get the Chinese government where it hurts.

In other news...

Part of traveling to the Burmese border is meeting people and eating their food. It's also seeing Burmese TV. Since I don't travel with a DVD-recorder or a VCR in my pack I had to make due with my good old digital camera. So here's a segment of a fair and balanced Burmese news cast. It went on and on like this. And yes, unfortunately this guy is for real....



Edit, 12/12: He's probably saying how good the crops are this year and the people have plenty to eat thanks to the state and its leader and all is well, sleep tight, don't let the police dogs bite, if you're wondering...

Return from Sangkhlaburi

Sometimes you have to get away. Not to the umpteenth beach resort, something new, fresh, without Seven Elevens and hamburgers. Sangkhlaburi is such a place. And I almost dread writing about it, because it's so nice and peaceful now. A small hill resort scene has sprung up already. So keep this one quiet, O.K.? You should visit for the sheer beauty of the hills, the drive there, the cool air, the treks and of course because you'll feel like you're not in Thailand. Most people are at least half Burmese, or Mon, or Karen. And so is the food and the atmosphere. That is of course because you are almost in Burma (map).

Here's a shot of Sangkhlaburi's Famous Longest Wooden Bridge in Thailand:

Some locals kidding around and smoking cheroots at the market:

And finally this lovely painted face:

There and back again

Here at Here In The Now we are definitely back here right now, but here's a little movie from when we were back there on Ko Chaang having big fun in the then and stuff :)

Travel Picture Yard Sale

New York, 2003 around 2 AM. The Fat Cat (jazz club and pool hall) is swinging. Beer is sold outside the jazz club section in bottles. Tonight the bass is tight, the drums rock, the piano is on the money and the sax is stellar. But then again this is New York. The bum in the corner probably plays sax. And of course he's stellar too.

For the life of me I couldn't think of this quartet's name. J.J. Wes and the East Side Swing Cats. Montgomery Flash and the Blue Saints. Red's All Star Swing Revue. Who cares. They don't. Sax guy quickly mumbles the introduction into the mic and then Drums guy counts four so they can do what they came here to do: play.

Khon Kaen: the basic survival map

Here's a message for all you touristic types: part one of the free downloadable and printable maps of Khon Kaen has arrived. I repeat: part one of the free downloadable and printable maps of Khon Kaen has arrived. Mind the gap. Proceed to luggage terminal 4. Don't get lost!

(Don't forget to click for the larger version: way easier to read).

(And yes, there are more hotels, hospitals and stuff in Khon Kaen: these are the ones I know).

Travel Picture Yard Sale

Today's Travel Picture Yardsale Picture takes you to India in 2002. Aurangabad to be exact. The place they have the worlds largest monolithic structure. That's right: a huge mountain of a rock became a temple. Aurangabad also has buses. And that's were I came across this boy. I've always thought he must be going to the dentist or something. But you can make up your own story...

Khon Kaen: getting here

Somebody recently asked my why on earth I never posted any info for travelers about Khon Kaen. Surely as a resident I would know the ins, the outs, the hots and the nots way better than any guidebook out there. True. I have come to know the place very well. And I've decided to share my...erm... vast knowledge of this town. Be careful however: things change and my opinion might not be the general one. Here goes...

First things first. Before you can enjoy this town you have to get here. Most people come to Khon Kaen because it's on the way to Vientiane, Laos. Other routes include Chiang Mai to Ko Chang and or Cambodia (over land) and for the real dare devils the Thailand/ Southern Laos/ Vietnam track.

There are no beaches. No real tourist scene. And to most people that is exactly what is so charming about the place. This is Thailand at it's most Thai and if you want more of that, it's a great gateway to the rest of the North East or as the locals call it: Isaan. Definitely worth your visit. You can get here in three ways if you don't count walking:

1) By plane: there are daily Thai airways flights from Don Muang. A single ticket is about 1500-2000 Baht per person (around 40 euros). Be advised: these flight are pretty packed, so you have to book ahead. Flight time: about 45 minutes.

2) By train: a number of trains pass through Khon Kaen, notably the night train from Bangkok to Nong Kai. It will get you here slowly (9-10 hours) and safely. The train reaches Khon Kaen at around 5. You could have a pretty decent night's sleep (if you bring an eye patch). Second class sleeper will cost around 600 Baht (12 euros). Or have a very nice little first class compartment all to yourself and a significant other for around 1400 Baht (28 euros) per person. Book ahead Hualampong Station in Bangkok (it's the final/first station on the subway), especially near holidays.

3) By bus: there are many buses to Khon Kaen. Some slow, some fast, some safe, some, unsafe. The rule in Thailand is that you go on the gouvernment bus if you can. They are the most safe. But they are also slow at times. Luckily there are a couple of bus companies that have a really good reputation according to the locals and me. The best one for the Bangkok-Khon Kaen route is called Nakorn Chai Air. They drive modern, comfortable, well serviced and staffed buses, have two drivers per trip and they are said to fine their drivers if they arrive early. Travel time is about six hours (and that makes sleeping in the night bus useless). A single ticket goes for about 400 Baht (8 euros) and can be bought the easiest at Ekkamai bus station (AKA the eastern/North Eastern bus station). That's easiest because it's on the Sky train. The bus doesn't leave from there however. It leaves from its own Nakorn Chai Air terminal outside the city and passes Mochit bus station. It's best to take a taxi there. They will know both. On the way back don't get off in Mochit. It's easier to catch a cab at the Nakorn Chai terminal.

Travel Picture Yard Sale

Here's one from the travel archives for your viewing pleasure and/or desktop or something. A nice shot from Ko Chang in 2003. I know most of you guys are slowly getting ready for winter. This picture will either make you warm and happy, or slightly frustrated and really thirsty. Hey hey: I'm hoping for the first to happen of course :)